Care Plan for Your New Bosworth Bunnies Baby
***Updated 24th feb 2021***
This information has been written for those who have reserved one of my own bunnies and contains extremely important information with regards to diet and care.
This information ONLY applies to rabbits bred by me (from February 2020) and can not under any circumstances be used for bunnies bred by different breeders.
This information has been written for those who have reserved one of my own bunnies and contains extremely important information with regards to diet and care.
This information ONLY applies to rabbits bred by me (from February 2020) and can not under any circumstances be used for bunnies bred by different breeders.
Where I Buy My Supplies:
I buy all my bunny supplies from the following farm shop:
SLB Supplies
Wood Road,
Ellistown
Bagworth
Coalville
LE67 1GE
TEL: 01530 230377
I also use zooplus and amazon regularly for toys and cage accessories.
SLB Supplies
Wood Road,
Ellistown
Bagworth
Coalville
LE67 1GE
TEL: 01530 230377
I also use zooplus and amazon regularly for toys and cage accessories.
Diet
Please read thoroughly; extremely important information.
Moving home can be very stressful for baby rabbits. As a result, any changes to the rabbits diet within the first couple of weeks can have SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES. Do not feed your rabbit anything differently to what I feed my bunnies for the first month. If you need to change food stuffs do so only after this first month in their new home and make sure the changeover lasts at least two weeks. I will send you home with a bag of change over food but please note I expect new owners to buy in Burgess Excel Adult (pictured below) so you can continue to feed the same as I do for at least a month.
How to change food slowly over a two week period:
You can achieve this by adding small amounts of their new food to their usual food, slowly increasing the amount of new and decreasing the amount of old until by day 14 it is mainly new food. The slower you do this, the better it will be for the bunny.
ONLY feed rabbits quality feed. This does not necessarily mean expensive feed. All you are looking for is either “hay” or “grass” to be listed first on the ingredients list. Very simple. This means that grass or hay make up the majority of the diet. If it is anything else then do not buy it. Your rabbit will get fat/poorly from consuming too many pellets (which contain food stuff that do not suit the rabbits delicate digestive system) and struggle to eat hay because their usual food is so sweet.
Moving home can be very stressful for baby rabbits. As a result, any changes to the rabbits diet within the first couple of weeks can have SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES. Do not feed your rabbit anything differently to what I feed my bunnies for the first month. If you need to change food stuffs do so only after this first month in their new home and make sure the changeover lasts at least two weeks. I will send you home with a bag of change over food but please note I expect new owners to buy in Burgess Excel Adult (pictured below) so you can continue to feed the same as I do for at least a month.
How to change food slowly over a two week period:
You can achieve this by adding small amounts of their new food to their usual food, slowly increasing the amount of new and decreasing the amount of old until by day 14 it is mainly new food. The slower you do this, the better it will be for the bunny.
ONLY feed rabbits quality feed. This does not necessarily mean expensive feed. All you are looking for is either “hay” or “grass” to be listed first on the ingredients list. Very simple. This means that grass or hay make up the majority of the diet. If it is anything else then do not buy it. Your rabbit will get fat/poorly from consuming too many pellets (which contain food stuff that do not suit the rabbits delicate digestive system) and struggle to eat hay because their usual food is so sweet.
The Food I Feed 😁
I feed Burgess Excel Adult.
See the screenshot below for the food I recommend for the bunnies I breed..... (I buy mine from amazon but their prices fluctuate so please shop around);
See the screenshot below for the food I recommend for the bunnies I breed..... (I buy mine from amazon but their prices fluctuate so please shop around);
This is excellent food. The best. It’s that simple.
NOTE: This is ADULT rabbit food, not junior!
How Many Pellets Should I Feed My New Bunny?
Don’t feed too many pellets (guide given on the pack) as bunnies won’t then eat their hay (although in my experience rabbits prefer to eat a little bit of everything so as long as pellets are healthy obesity is not usually an issue). BUT do not limit a baby rabbits food stuffs either... they are growing and very much need a lot of food to meet their bodies growing demands (more food than even an adult!). You will only need to limit as they are fully grown but the rabbit must always have something to eat (like hay, fresh foods etc).
It is difficult for me to give you exact amounts because I have a litter and a greedy nursing mum all in one hutch so I have no choice but to feed to demand. You will get your own routine and start to understand your own bunnies.
A good indicator if you are over feeding pellets; if you see too many caecotrophs (a shiny bunch of grape like squished up poos) on the rabbits floor in the morning then this is likely to be because you are feeding too many pellets. These types of poops are meant to be re-digested (I know yuk haha) but are often not re-digested when the rabbits are consuming a high number of pellets. I hope that helps you. If in doubt, please ask/call me.
N.B. You may read a rabbit should only eat an egg cup of pellets per day. Please do not limit my babies food to an egg cup... drastic changes to any rabbits diet risks their life. Some homes manage this successfully but a diet change so drastic should be worked towards/introduced extremely slowly and will require a high amount of other foods stuffs to replace those pellets.
NOTE: This is ADULT rabbit food, not junior!
How Many Pellets Should I Feed My New Bunny?
Don’t feed too many pellets (guide given on the pack) as bunnies won’t then eat their hay (although in my experience rabbits prefer to eat a little bit of everything so as long as pellets are healthy obesity is not usually an issue). BUT do not limit a baby rabbits food stuffs either... they are growing and very much need a lot of food to meet their bodies growing demands (more food than even an adult!). You will only need to limit as they are fully grown but the rabbit must always have something to eat (like hay, fresh foods etc).
It is difficult for me to give you exact amounts because I have a litter and a greedy nursing mum all in one hutch so I have no choice but to feed to demand. You will get your own routine and start to understand your own bunnies.
A good indicator if you are over feeding pellets; if you see too many caecotrophs (a shiny bunch of grape like squished up poos) on the rabbits floor in the morning then this is likely to be because you are feeding too many pellets. These types of poops are meant to be re-digested (I know yuk haha) but are often not re-digested when the rabbits are consuming a high number of pellets. I hope that helps you. If in doubt, please ask/call me.
N.B. You may read a rabbit should only eat an egg cup of pellets per day. Please do not limit my babies food to an egg cup... drastic changes to any rabbits diet risks their life. Some homes manage this successfully but a diet change so drastic should be worked towards/introduced extremely slowly and will require a high amount of other foods stuffs to replace those pellets.
Hay
The next very important item I always feed my bunnies is hay. Lots of it! I have a lot of different types of hays keeps life interesting. Their favourite is long stemmed Timothy hay, they love the special hays in pets at home such as those with added apple and carrot etc. There is even one in B&M which has dried dandelion flowers in and they love that too.
You may be interested in the following item for your bunny/ies...
Recommended “Treat”
I recommend barley rings as a weekly treat for your bunnies. They have linseed oil which is brilliant for their coat (and can help them recover from a heavy moult) and are also high in calories which can be great for growing bunnies and rabbits who are out in the winter. They love them too which is great! Here’s a pic of them...
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They come in huge 15kg bags... please note I can give them in smaller bags for those who have just one or two bunnies. Please ask and I can have this ready for when you collect bunny.
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Fresh Foods
**I DO NOT feed fruit to my rabbits**
The above is very important to know; your baby rabbit will NOT be used to fruit & they can have diarrhoea for days after (it ferments in their gut and remains for days). Do not feed fruit for at least four weeks and after this time if you want to introduce it do so in tiny tiny amounts.
Rabbits need fresh foods daily; A handful of green leafy veg and/or a run around on the grass for a good few hours (not in direct sunlight of course).
Veggies safe to feed your new Bosworth Bunnies Baby once settled (and fully vaccinated, very important!);
Grass
Kale (absolute fave!)
carrot tops (the green stuff)
Weeds e.g. dandelion flowers and weeds, sticky weed, plantain (not in seed), clover, thistle or any fruit tree/bush leaves & twigs (e.g. apple tree, plum tree, blackberry, cherry tree etc etc).
Herbs such as Basil
Any other veggies please introduce VERY SLOWLY in very SMALL amounts to the babies once they are completely settled with you (from about a month of being in their new homes). Remember the rules... green and leafy veg is ok everyday but anything else (providing its rabbit safe) is a treat. Treats include carrots (carrots are high in carbs, rabbits need to eat high fibre not high carbs; carrot tops not included they are the ultimate bunny fave if you can find them they can be given daily!), bits of apple banana berries etc. are a RARE treat (sugars in fruit will decay teeth, remember fruits are naturally only around for short periods of time in the wild so are never a diet staple for even wild rabbits). Sunflower seeds can also be given as a treat.
The above is very important to know; your baby rabbit will NOT be used to fruit & they can have diarrhoea for days after (it ferments in their gut and remains for days). Do not feed fruit for at least four weeks and after this time if you want to introduce it do so in tiny tiny amounts.
Rabbits need fresh foods daily; A handful of green leafy veg and/or a run around on the grass for a good few hours (not in direct sunlight of course).
Veggies safe to feed your new Bosworth Bunnies Baby once settled (and fully vaccinated, very important!);
Grass
Kale (absolute fave!)
carrot tops (the green stuff)
Weeds e.g. dandelion flowers and weeds, sticky weed, plantain (not in seed), clover, thistle or any fruit tree/bush leaves & twigs (e.g. apple tree, plum tree, blackberry, cherry tree etc etc).
Herbs such as Basil
Any other veggies please introduce VERY SLOWLY in very SMALL amounts to the babies once they are completely settled with you (from about a month of being in their new homes). Remember the rules... green and leafy veg is ok everyday but anything else (providing its rabbit safe) is a treat. Treats include carrots (carrots are high in carbs, rabbits need to eat high fibre not high carbs; carrot tops not included they are the ultimate bunny fave if you can find them they can be given daily!), bits of apple banana berries etc. are a RARE treat (sugars in fruit will decay teeth, remember fruits are naturally only around for short periods of time in the wild so are never a diet staple for even wild rabbits). Sunflower seeds can also be given as a treat.
Commercial Treats
Fine to give bunnies now and then but the trick is that it really is to be a rare treat. Just quickly glance over the ingredients and keep in mind that you should recognise everything on the list and nothing should ring alarm bells like added sugar/glucose or anything ending in “ose” which means it’s a sugar. Added fruit is fine because fruit is a treat and that should provide enough sweetness in itself.
Vaccinations
Absolutely essential. Particularly RHDV2 vaccine. It’s a very real threat and if your vet advises you you don’t need it then you need to change vets (yes this has really happened recently 😭). It doesn’t matter if your rabbit is indoor or outdoor this vaccine is life saving. I know of rabbits recently (Spring 2020) who have confirmed cases of RHDV2 and passed away. They were indoor rabbits 💔
Check with your local vets how soon your new rabbit can be vaccinated and get it done ASAP. Different manufacturers have different minimum age guidelines for the vaccine to be effective (I.e. if a rabbit is vaccinated before the recommended minimum age, the rabbits immune system is too immature to create a targeted immune response in the rabbit, rendering the vaccination useless. So, it is very important to give your vets the rabbits exact date of birth). There is a new 3 in 1 vaccination which will also provide some protection against myxomatosis asand can be given from as young as 5 weeks of age.
The prices of vaccinations varries considerably. Make sure you are getting a good price!
***FROM APRIL 2020 THERE IS A NEW VACCINE! IT IS A 3 IN 1 VACCINE WHICH COVERS RHDV1, RHDV2 AND MYXOMATOSIS. SPEAK TO YOUR VET ABOUT THIS VACCINE & IF THEY STOCK IT. It is worth paying the extra for this new vaccine in my opinion because it can be given from 5 weeks old!
Check with your local vets how soon your new rabbit can be vaccinated and get it done ASAP. Different manufacturers have different minimum age guidelines for the vaccine to be effective (I.e. if a rabbit is vaccinated before the recommended minimum age, the rabbits immune system is too immature to create a targeted immune response in the rabbit, rendering the vaccination useless. So, it is very important to give your vets the rabbits exact date of birth). There is a new 3 in 1 vaccination which will also provide some protection against myxomatosis asand can be given from as young as 5 weeks of age.
The prices of vaccinations varries considerably. Make sure you are getting a good price!
***FROM APRIL 2020 THERE IS A NEW VACCINE! IT IS A 3 IN 1 VACCINE WHICH COVERS RHDV1, RHDV2 AND MYXOMATOSIS. SPEAK TO YOUR VET ABOUT THIS VACCINE & IF THEY STOCK IT. It is worth paying the extra for this new vaccine in my opinion because it can be given from 5 weeks old!
Substrate
You can use which ever wood shavings you find you like the best (or none at all maybe) but I am giving this info as it is asked a lot.... which do I use. I think people very thoughtfully and lovingly want to give their new baby what they’ve been used to.
I always use large wood shavings called “Bed Max”. I put this in their litter boxes too. I pay £7.50 for 20kg. ***I do not use this substrate for my angoras as it’s too messy for their wool. For my angoras I use a combination of wood pellet cat litter (in litter trays) and carpet tiles/fleece for comfort in their housing areas. This helps keep them tidier. |
Litter Trays
Do you dream of an easier life?! Here’s the best advice ever for that easy life you so crave... Put litter trays in your rabbits living area (in corners) and make your life a thousand times easier 😍👌
Nothing special needs to go in there, just remember you’re trying to encourage your rabbit to sit in it so this is done by putting your wood shavings and hay into the tray and if you can a hay rack above it too. Your rabbit is a clean animal and he wants to be clean. House move and young age can affect things but they will get there. The cleaner you keep their living area the easier it will be for them too ☺️👍 I am often asked how I set mine up and have taken some simple pics of them here for you (without their toys boxes etc in so you can clearly see). All babies have litter trays as ALL mums and dads use them. ALL my mums are immaculately clean and believe it or not... so are their babies. But don’t get too excited; this will go out the window in their new homes 🤣 just set them up like this and it will all work out. |
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Remember fixed rabbits are much cleaner too. Bringing the subject smoothly onto.....
Neutering
...Those in different sex couples will possibly struggle to be clean until they are fixed. It is extremely important to have males who are living in a pair neutered BEFORE they hit 4 months of age. As soon as those sex hormones are triggered & released (as early as 4 months old) there’s no going back and any behaviours are here to stay. This will all matter when it comes to litter training too. Neuter young (at 4 months max) and you don’t need to worry about it. If your vet says they won’t neuter until 6 months as standard... you need to find a new vet, that is too late for a rabbit. Sometimes rabbits testicles do not descend until later in which case neutering will have to happen later but this is unusual. A vet will want to wait to neuter so there are less risks for them but this is almost pointless for the rabbits. Neutering is about sooo much more than baby prevention.
What is the cost of neutering?? Don’t be ripped off! It should cost between £57-£65 for a boy or girl. Remember this to compare prices. Ring around vets as prices vary massively.
I hear you ask... but why are Carly’s rabbits so clean, tidy and friendly, yet they aren’t neutered!?!? It’s all relative... my rabbits are well behaved and clean because they are fulfilling their needs, wants and desires. Regularly too. There are no frustrations in my rabbitry. Momma’s raise their babies. Daddies, erm, well have regular fun making those babies 😩😂 Their genetic needs are being met. They’re happy. The important point is REGULARITY; This will NOT be the case for pet rabbits and you’ll need to do something otherwise it’s not nice for the rabbit. They will be frustrated. Think of ourselves in isolation and any odd behaviour will then be simple to understand ❤️ 🐰
If you don’t understand something, now or in the future, and it’s related to rabbits 😬... please get on the phone and I shall be at the end of it for you ☺️👌🐰💕
What is the cost of neutering?? Don’t be ripped off! It should cost between £57-£65 for a boy or girl. Remember this to compare prices. Ring around vets as prices vary massively.
I hear you ask... but why are Carly’s rabbits so clean, tidy and friendly, yet they aren’t neutered!?!? It’s all relative... my rabbits are well behaved and clean because they are fulfilling their needs, wants and desires. Regularly too. There are no frustrations in my rabbitry. Momma’s raise their babies. Daddies, erm, well have regular fun making those babies 😩😂 Their genetic needs are being met. They’re happy. The important point is REGULARITY; This will NOT be the case for pet rabbits and you’ll need to do something otherwise it’s not nice for the rabbit. They will be frustrated. Think of ourselves in isolation and any odd behaviour will then be simple to understand ❤️ 🐰
If you don’t understand something, now or in the future, and it’s related to rabbits 😬... please get on the phone and I shall be at the end of it for you ☺️👌🐰💕
General Care
Your new bunny will need other regular care throughout its life. I have no doubt at all that each home will find their own way of doing this and their own favourite things to use. I thought it would be helpful if I shared a few of my own favourite things which I use regularly.
Grooming
All bunnies need to be groomed, not just the lions or angoras. All rabbits moult during different times of the year and a good brush can help the rabbit shed the fur. They can look rather scruffy and odd coloured during this time too. Below are pictures of my favourite brushes (the comb type brush is used only for the lion lops/angoras who have a long coats which can knot).
The nail scissors are my absolute favourite (I’ve tried many over the years)! Even use them for my little dog too. Mini Rex usually need their nails trimming regularly, the lops not so much, depending how much they’re outside. If it’s a job you don’t like doing, ask your pet store/vet or even better, give the rabbits a run on concrete regularly to wear down their nails naturally.
Parasite Protection:
It may be difficult for pet homes to get hold of the parasite protection I use for my bunnies (Ivermectin). So, I recommend the following for parasite PREVENTION. If your bunny has a bad parasite problem (including mites, fleas) I recommend a trip to the vets as you may not have the contacts to be able to get hold of the same products I use. Please do not be embarrassed about a parasite problem with your pet... it’s totally natural. Mites can be brought to you by fresh hay and other parasites come to your rabbits via flies etc. It’s no problem to treat but if left untreated it can be very uncomfortable for your pet & cause seemingly unrelated problems too. Mites and fleas can also carry diseases to your pet (such as myxomatosis/RHDV; hence the reason house rabbits are just as at risk as outdoor bunnies). Parasite protection is all part and parcel of rabbit care and owning a pet, just like dogs and cats. Ensure your other pets are up to date with flea/mite/tick prevention as those pests are not fussy and indiscriminately move from one pet to the other. If you need to treat one of your pets for parasites, you will have to treat all of your pets for treatment to be effective unfortunately.
The following spot on is easily accessible for everyone, cheap and is perfectly adequate for parasite prevention. The panacur is regularly used by lots of breeders and is easy to obtain. It is used for worm treatment and preventention and is absolutely fantastic. Symptoms of worms in rabbits include a rounded unusually hard belly, unexplained weightloss, hair loss (the loses due to vitamins being taken by the parasite). Worms is extremely easy and inexpensive to treat and no need to feel embarrassed about, its really common. If your rabbit has worms it is important to treat this ASAP as it can develop (rarely) into a very serious condition where the parasite reaches the brain (or inner ear) causing the rabbit to hold its head at an angle also known as head tilt... this can be permanent damage and/or fatal but only if the problem is ignored. The longer the problem persists, the less likely a full recovery is to be. It is so very cheap to treat. If you suspect head tilt, please call me ASAP this is a medical emergency, I have the product to hand and will help you.
The following spot on is easily accessible for everyone, cheap and is perfectly adequate for parasite prevention. The panacur is regularly used by lots of breeders and is easy to obtain. It is used for worm treatment and preventention and is absolutely fantastic. Symptoms of worms in rabbits include a rounded unusually hard belly, unexplained weightloss, hair loss (the loses due to vitamins being taken by the parasite). Worms is extremely easy and inexpensive to treat and no need to feel embarrassed about, its really common. If your rabbit has worms it is important to treat this ASAP as it can develop (rarely) into a very serious condition where the parasite reaches the brain (or inner ear) causing the rabbit to hold its head at an angle also known as head tilt... this can be permanent damage and/or fatal but only if the problem is ignored. The longer the problem persists, the less likely a full recovery is to be. It is so very cheap to treat. If you suspect head tilt, please call me ASAP this is a medical emergency, I have the product to hand and will help you.
If your bunny is heavily infested (it can happen as it can be easily missed if you’ve never experienced parasites before) I recommend a vet visit. Personally I have no experience of flea infestations so I can not comment on how effective the spot on would be in that case. I use this regularly for my own adults as a preventative measure.
Recommended Critical Care Items
So here are a few of my “just in case” products that I make sure I always have to hand in the event that I have a poorly bunny.
Vitamins: I give this to pregnant mums, babies and any babies who I have hand reared. Also give it to rabbits who lose weight for one reason or another. I simply pour it over their food or in their water bottles.
Toys/Runs
I have lots and lots of rabbit toys listed for you HERE.
Need housing advice? Please see my article HERE.
Need housing advice? Please see my article HERE.
People often ask so just listing the rabbit runs too... the wooden one must have a lid on as rabbits easily jump out, even four week old bunnies haha...
Hutch Maintenance Tip!
I am being asked "What can I line my hutch with"... well, this is your choice of course but I can tell you that I paint ALL of my hutch floors with this "Wilko Garage Floor Paint Grey" (most floor paints, providing they're acrylic based, will likely do the trick). This stuff is amazing! Paint it thick and leave no gaps (paint up the sides about 6 inches too) and you will find no urine can leak into your hutch wood!! This stuff is brilliant, all my new hutches will last much longer now and bunnies are able to be kept in much more sanitary conditions (nothing worse than urine soaked wood).
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By the Way...
I would like you to know:
Despite the detailed diet info and the warnings about new foods/fruits people always ignore it 🤣🤣🤣 I do the same when I get a new bunny, it’s like we can’t help it because we want our new bunny to love us so try to bribe them with yummy foods 😂 so please note...
If you have fed something you perhaps live to regret when bunny isn’t looking so well, please contact me and I can help you/advise you.
Diarrhoea: when to panic!
If Bunny isn’t eating and his/her poos have totally lost their shape (they just look like a mushy mess when they are passed rather than because they’ve been stood on) then you need to bring rabbit to me or vet advice ASAP. If you have the fibre medicine above please give this to your bunny (and let the vet know). Severe diarrhoea like this kills a rabbit in 24 hrs. However...
If bunnies poos are still in a ball shape but look shiny & in clumps; this is called caecum. It’s a special kind of poo which bunny should be re-injesting (fibre is hard to break down and needs processing twice to be broken downcompletely, rabbit digestive system is totally different to our own). If you see these caecums it means the rabbit isn’t eating them; this could mean your rabbits diet is too rich: are you feeding too many pellets? Too many treats? Cut back on foods (not hay) slowly until this improves. Too many caecums can be a problem as it causes bunnies to make a mess of themselves which can lead to fly strike etc (please note; fly strike is a serious life threatening condition which IS NOT only limited to dirty rabbits who are kept in dirty conditions (a common misconception). Fly strike can also occur if a bunny is not well. Taking good care of your bunny and ensuring you handle them everyday to keep an eye on their bottoms and ensure they are healthy can prevent fly strike. Keeping their litter trays/hutches tidy will deter flies from visiting too. If you see flies landing on your rabbit check the bunnies bottom straight away (move the fur to see the private parts to look thoroughly).
Despite the detailed diet info and the warnings about new foods/fruits people always ignore it 🤣🤣🤣 I do the same when I get a new bunny, it’s like we can’t help it because we want our new bunny to love us so try to bribe them with yummy foods 😂 so please note...
If you have fed something you perhaps live to regret when bunny isn’t looking so well, please contact me and I can help you/advise you.
Diarrhoea: when to panic!
If Bunny isn’t eating and his/her poos have totally lost their shape (they just look like a mushy mess when they are passed rather than because they’ve been stood on) then you need to bring rabbit to me or vet advice ASAP. If you have the fibre medicine above please give this to your bunny (and let the vet know). Severe diarrhoea like this kills a rabbit in 24 hrs. However...
If bunnies poos are still in a ball shape but look shiny & in clumps; this is called caecum. It’s a special kind of poo which bunny should be re-injesting (fibre is hard to break down and needs processing twice to be broken downcompletely, rabbit digestive system is totally different to our own). If you see these caecums it means the rabbit isn’t eating them; this could mean your rabbits diet is too rich: are you feeding too many pellets? Too many treats? Cut back on foods (not hay) slowly until this improves. Too many caecums can be a problem as it causes bunnies to make a mess of themselves which can lead to fly strike etc (please note; fly strike is a serious life threatening condition which IS NOT only limited to dirty rabbits who are kept in dirty conditions (a common misconception). Fly strike can also occur if a bunny is not well. Taking good care of your bunny and ensuring you handle them everyday to keep an eye on their bottoms and ensure they are healthy can prevent fly strike. Keeping their litter trays/hutches tidy will deter flies from visiting too. If you see flies landing on your rabbit check the bunnies bottom straight away (move the fur to see the private parts to look thoroughly).
English Angora Babies?
Click the link below to see my extra page (I’m so sorry 😂) for specific information on the extra needs of the angoras (grooming and sheering needs):
Any Problems?
Any problems at all... please contact me. No matter what it is I will be able to help. Don’t be embarrassed or shy if it’s something sensitive, Iv most likely heard it before ☺️👍 If you have had a long haired bunny from me and you are in a mess, please do not be embarrased to call and ask for help, I will understand and I never judge, I'm here to help.
No matter the situation, if you ever find you can not continue to provide a home for my rabbit/s I will take them back. I will not ask the reason (I will need to know of health/behaviour of the rabbit of course) but will take the bunnies back asap for you. Please do not put my rabbits into a rescue centre. I will not judge you, I am old and wise (haha), please contact me if and when you need to.
No matter the situation, if you ever find you can not continue to provide a home for my rabbit/s I will take them back. I will not ask the reason (I will need to know of health/behaviour of the rabbit of course) but will take the bunnies back asap for you. Please do not put my rabbits into a rescue centre. I will not judge you, I am old and wise (haha), please contact me if and when you need to.
Good luck with your new Bosworth Bunny and please send me updates/photos/videos if you have time 🐰💙🌸
Thank you,
Carly Charles
Bosworth Stud 🐰
07969754663
Market Bosworth, Warwickshire
Instagram: @bosworth_bunnies
Carly Charles
Bosworth Stud 🐰
07969754663
Market Bosworth, Warwickshire
Instagram: @bosworth_bunnies