My Terms & Conditions
Thank you for considering one of my baby bunnies 🙂
The following terms and conditions are extremely important to read; they protect me and yourself from any misunderstandings.
Please read this information (the boring bit!) before placing a deposit on a bunny. If you have placed a deposit on a bunny or collect a rabbit or pair, I will assume you have read and agree to the following conditions. If I suspect you have not read the following or the bunny care guide I may well refuse a sale, even at the time of collection.
For extra information regarding English Angoras please read English Angora: Care & Info page for care tips on grooming, sheering and bunny breed info.
**Please note, I am located in Market Bosworth, Warwickshire, England, UK.**
Mini Lop Babies are £60 with a £20 deposit.
Mini Lion Lop babies are £70 with a £20 deposit.
There are no exceptions to these fair prices ❤️
Your bunny may or may not come vaccinated, I can not guarantee this. I do not provide a discount for those not vaccinated; if your rabbit comes vaccinated this is a free perk.
Sorry, no deposit means a bunny is not reserved under any circumstances. This is to ensure no one is pressured into reserving a bunny & all bunnies have chance to find loving homes while young.
Please think of my wonderful neighbours when visiting (pls don't block access to driveways by parking directly in front of my house).
My rabbits are of excellent quality. I breed for health, temperament and type as a priority by using fantastic rabbits with well known and documented pedigree's, either owned by myself or trusted show breeders.
I offer my bunnies to loving pet homes only (no breeders). If you are a breeder looking for stock, please make sure I am aware of this; if I know your intentions, I will be able to advise you better. If I have suspicions that you are going to breed a rabbit advertised for a pet home I will refuse a sale even on the doorstep; I consider this deception to be theft of the stock I have worked on for years but even worse, this deception deprives my rabbit of the pet home and neutering he/she should have had.
If you do not collect your bunny on the day arranged, without prior notice or explanation, or if you do not contact me to arrange collection, and/or do not reply to my messages within a reasonable time (7 days) then I am forced to offer bunny to the next family waiting. Also, I will NOT chase you; if I stipulated a date to arrange collection by and it passes, I will assume you have changed your mind and you will lose your deposit. Everyone’s situation can change and I am only asking for honesty and communication. I will appreciate being told the bunny is no longer wanted so I can offer the bunny to the next home as soon as possible.
I reserve the right to refuse to give someone one of my bunnies (regardless of deposits paid: if I suspect someone has not read my advice or not prepared properly for their new bunny). Deposits are non refundable in all circumstances, unless tragically a bunny passes away or has an accident, in this case I will return your deposit by the method it was given to me. You will also forfeit your deposit if you fail to reply to me, I will not chase you to collect your bunny or arrange a date. I do not pressurise people to commit to taking away a live animal they do not really want.
Collection dates can change... these are live animals and their needs come first to me. This is not enough to warrant return of a deposit. If you change your mind just tell me so I can rehome the bunny asap. Please bear this in mind if your bunny is intended for a child, I would advise against telling a child a definite date for collection.
I DO NOT guarantee the sex of your rabbit or pair of rabbits.
In 7 years I have never sexed a rabbit incorrectly (that I am aware of). However, as soon as a rabbit leaves my care I have no control of any situation my rabbit is put in; because of this I DO NOT guarantee your rabbits gender.
I believe gender mistakes are made due to inexperience or a lack of time and effort. I sex rabbits constantly from birth and take my time in doing so. I will sex your rabbit in front of you and show you how to do so; as a result I expect no comeback with regards to the sex of the rabbit and anything that happens as a result as I have done all that I possibly can. That said, I will always take bunnies back, regardless of sex or reason. I will always be here for advice too.
(please be aware vets sex rabbits very differently than us breeders (by feeling for the presence of testicles). Not being able to feel testicles of a young male rabbit does not mean he is a she. Anyone who knows rabbits knows this; male rabbit testicles usually drop by 3 months of age but can take until 5-7 months or longer to drop.
I expect families who have two or single bunnies to neuter/spay at 3-4 months of age
(the male firstly; early neutering is essential for good bunny behaviour).
I will not allow you to take a rabbit from me to bond to another adult or juvenile rabbit if you have not thoroughly researched the subject and understand that bonding is a long process. I will refuse the sale of one of my bunnies if you are going to bond rabbits but do not have two cages or think it will be a one day type process. Serious physical injury of rabbits can occur if you do not understand the process/behaviour of rabbits or fail to supervise the rabbits. Both bunnies need to be neutered before any introductions (even if there are bars separating them). I will no longer allow people to buy a baby if they expect to put the baby with the adult (this shows a lack of rabbit understanding). I recommend male/female couples or sibling couples but once rabbits are neutered couples may be in any sex couples/groups with careful and patient bonding (and adequate space). I recommend the RSPCA's information on bonding rabbits HERE, it is exactly the advice I would give BUT please note I will not give you any more information about this. It is upto you, the owner, to supervise the bonding of two rabbits and carry out the procedure correctly and slowly. I will not be held liable for vets bills or damage caused to a rabbit who is not even in my care.
Bonding that is rushed and unsupervised can end up in serious injury of a rabbit/s, regardless of the sex of the rabbits.
I respond to everyone asap and try to help as much as possible (this include the many enquiries I have daily regarding all aspects of bunny related subjects & my rescue work). I am a very busy mum/student and do have a life outside of bunnies (believe it or not haha). Please call me if the matter is urgent, otherwise please be patient (I can be in the lab without my phone for 6 hours at a time).
I offer a 48 hour guarantee for your bunny but you MUST follow the advice on the care sheet I give you the link to when you have reserved your bunnies. This advice is catered to your individual bunny. Moving home will be a stressful & critical time for your bunny. I will send home enough change over food to ensure bunnies tummy is not upset during such a big upheaval. I expect new homes to buy in the food I recommend (burgess excel adult) so that bunnies food is not changed for a couple of months. After this time you are free to feed what you would like as bunny will not be so sensitive to the change.
Do not feed any fresh produce during the first few weeks. Stick to pellets (excel burgess adult), hay, water and grass. DO NOT change this diet, even if told by pet shop worker, this will make your bunny poorly. The only exception would be if a vet advised so.
Remember, a bunny who doesn’t eat or have a bowel movement in 24 hours is a poorly bunny. Changing their diet at the same time as a house move is NOT advisable and will void your guarantee. I can not be held responsible for ANY vets bills for ANY reason. You must bring the bunny back to me for treatment (bear this in mind if you are travelling a long way to me) and I will treat bunny myself or seek medical attention (vets charge a lot for treatment which I could easily administer myself). Also, bear in mind the ONLY time a baby rabbit should be put under general anaesthetic is for a life or death situation. A baby rabbit is at a risk of death from being under general anaesthetic and the aftercare alone. Do not let your vet squeeze money from you at the risk of your rabbits health (this is not all vets of course).
Important Points to Mention
I put a lot of time and effort into raising these baby bunnies to ensure they will make excellent pets. Please expect me to ask some questions. I’m sure you can understand that I will want to make sure that my babies are going to loving homes that will provide for their bunnies needs and give them their precious time, love and adequate spacious housing. This will ensure your bunny is happy and healthy which will enable you to get the most from your beloved pet. Inadequate housing (esp a small living space) and/or neglect will result in a bunny who is unhappy and resorts to bad bunny behaviour.
Please note... having intact males and females in close proximity is not recommended. It can affect the behaviour of your bunnies. It can mean a bonded pair of females fall out or a male turns aggressive due to the presence of another male. Unless you are breeding, I would completely avoid this situation to ensure your rabbit retains its sweet nature. Neutering from 3 months (find a vet who will do this) will ensure your bunny stays sweet and loving. I can not be held to answer for an owner who has refused to take my advice on neutering their rabbit to ensure they remain wonderful pets (both sexes).
Please familiarise yourself with my website to ensure you understand what is expected of you as a new bunny owner. The information for new Bosworth Bunny owners is meant specifically for my baby bunnies and can not be generalised to bunnies from different breeders.
A rabbit prefers to live with another bunny. Indoor bunnies can be on their own as they have their family around them but it really depends how much attention they are getting. Neutering is a must with bunnies living in pairs or more, even in female sisters it is necessary (due to hormones at puberty around 5-6months).
My bunnies will be suitable as indoor or outdoor pets as they will be using litter trays as does their mummy and daddy. I only breed clean rabbits, messy rabbits have messy babies.
I will ask to see your housing and run (a photo & dimensions) before you leave with a bunny. This isn’t to be nosey. I have a duty as a responsible breeder to ensure the bunnies welfare and be a guide to prospective owners on housing if they need help (the minimum is 6ft x 2ft x 2ft, I advise absolutely no smaller than 5.5ft and bare in mind this is on top of hours a day out of their hutch). Bunny should also be able to stand on their hind feet and have enough room to stretch upwards fully. Again, if you are on a budget, rabbit housing doesn’t have to cost the earth, you just need to shop around and hopefully I can help you, see Ideal Bunny Homes. Indoor rabbits still need their own hutch/cage area and these requirements still apply to them. You can not have a bunny in a tiny cage because they will "have the run of the house or kitchen". They need their own space where only they go. Often, cages advertised as rabbit cages are no where near big enough. Check the dimensions.
If your bunny is an indoor/outdoor bunny please stick to that in the winter. In the summer its fine to bring either one inside or outside. However, in the winter, bringing an outdoor bunny inside and vise versa can seriously disrupt the bunnies ability to regulate its own temperature (due to our central heating systems and drastic temp changes) and bunny can die from over heating (presented in fits). In winter, be aware that bunny bottles will freeze if not in a shed. In summer, be aware that bunnies can die VERY QUICKLY on hot days. Do not have your bunnies hutch/housing in the sun, make sure they are in shade as a bare minimum.
As a responsible breeder, I will always take an unwanted bunny back and I do not need a reason as to why. I will then do my best to find a suitable and loving home for the bunny if I do not keep bun myself. I do not need a reason for re-home so please do not give my bunny to a rescue centre.
Finally...
If you have any questions or would like to enquire about reserving a bunny please contact me using the information here and I will reply as soon as possible (for the quickest response you can call, text or email). Try not to use whatsapp.
Please do familiarise yourself with the website as I have tried to share as much as possible about caring for bunnies. I am adding more and more to the site constantly.
Thank you very much for reading this information, I really do appreciate it.
The following terms and conditions are extremely important to read; they protect me and yourself from any misunderstandings.
Please read this information (the boring bit!) before placing a deposit on a bunny. If you have placed a deposit on a bunny or collect a rabbit or pair, I will assume you have read and agree to the following conditions. If I suspect you have not read the following or the bunny care guide I may well refuse a sale, even at the time of collection.
For extra information regarding English Angoras please read English Angora: Care & Info page for care tips on grooming, sheering and bunny breed info.
**Please note, I am located in Market Bosworth, Warwickshire, England, UK.**
Mini Lop Babies are £60 with a £20 deposit.
Mini Lion Lop babies are £70 with a £20 deposit.
There are no exceptions to these fair prices ❤️
Your bunny may or may not come vaccinated, I can not guarantee this. I do not provide a discount for those not vaccinated; if your rabbit comes vaccinated this is a free perk.
Sorry, no deposit means a bunny is not reserved under any circumstances. This is to ensure no one is pressured into reserving a bunny & all bunnies have chance to find loving homes while young.
Please think of my wonderful neighbours when visiting (pls don't block access to driveways by parking directly in front of my house).
My rabbits are of excellent quality. I breed for health, temperament and type as a priority by using fantastic rabbits with well known and documented pedigree's, either owned by myself or trusted show breeders.
I offer my bunnies to loving pet homes only (no breeders). If you are a breeder looking for stock, please make sure I am aware of this; if I know your intentions, I will be able to advise you better. If I have suspicions that you are going to breed a rabbit advertised for a pet home I will refuse a sale even on the doorstep; I consider this deception to be theft of the stock I have worked on for years but even worse, this deception deprives my rabbit of the pet home and neutering he/she should have had.
If you do not collect your bunny on the day arranged, without prior notice or explanation, or if you do not contact me to arrange collection, and/or do not reply to my messages within a reasonable time (7 days) then I am forced to offer bunny to the next family waiting. Also, I will NOT chase you; if I stipulated a date to arrange collection by and it passes, I will assume you have changed your mind and you will lose your deposit. Everyone’s situation can change and I am only asking for honesty and communication. I will appreciate being told the bunny is no longer wanted so I can offer the bunny to the next home as soon as possible.
I reserve the right to refuse to give someone one of my bunnies (regardless of deposits paid: if I suspect someone has not read my advice or not prepared properly for their new bunny). Deposits are non refundable in all circumstances, unless tragically a bunny passes away or has an accident, in this case I will return your deposit by the method it was given to me. You will also forfeit your deposit if you fail to reply to me, I will not chase you to collect your bunny or arrange a date. I do not pressurise people to commit to taking away a live animal they do not really want.
Collection dates can change... these are live animals and their needs come first to me. This is not enough to warrant return of a deposit. If you change your mind just tell me so I can rehome the bunny asap. Please bear this in mind if your bunny is intended for a child, I would advise against telling a child a definite date for collection.
I DO NOT guarantee the sex of your rabbit or pair of rabbits.
In 7 years I have never sexed a rabbit incorrectly (that I am aware of). However, as soon as a rabbit leaves my care I have no control of any situation my rabbit is put in; because of this I DO NOT guarantee your rabbits gender.
I believe gender mistakes are made due to inexperience or a lack of time and effort. I sex rabbits constantly from birth and take my time in doing so. I will sex your rabbit in front of you and show you how to do so; as a result I expect no comeback with regards to the sex of the rabbit and anything that happens as a result as I have done all that I possibly can. That said, I will always take bunnies back, regardless of sex or reason. I will always be here for advice too.
(please be aware vets sex rabbits very differently than us breeders (by feeling for the presence of testicles). Not being able to feel testicles of a young male rabbit does not mean he is a she. Anyone who knows rabbits knows this; male rabbit testicles usually drop by 3 months of age but can take until 5-7 months or longer to drop.
I expect families who have two or single bunnies to neuter/spay at 3-4 months of age
(the male firstly; early neutering is essential for good bunny behaviour).
I will not allow you to take a rabbit from me to bond to another adult or juvenile rabbit if you have not thoroughly researched the subject and understand that bonding is a long process. I will refuse the sale of one of my bunnies if you are going to bond rabbits but do not have two cages or think it will be a one day type process. Serious physical injury of rabbits can occur if you do not understand the process/behaviour of rabbits or fail to supervise the rabbits. Both bunnies need to be neutered before any introductions (even if there are bars separating them). I will no longer allow people to buy a baby if they expect to put the baby with the adult (this shows a lack of rabbit understanding). I recommend male/female couples or sibling couples but once rabbits are neutered couples may be in any sex couples/groups with careful and patient bonding (and adequate space). I recommend the RSPCA's information on bonding rabbits HERE, it is exactly the advice I would give BUT please note I will not give you any more information about this. It is upto you, the owner, to supervise the bonding of two rabbits and carry out the procedure correctly and slowly. I will not be held liable for vets bills or damage caused to a rabbit who is not even in my care.
Bonding that is rushed and unsupervised can end up in serious injury of a rabbit/s, regardless of the sex of the rabbits.
I respond to everyone asap and try to help as much as possible (this include the many enquiries I have daily regarding all aspects of bunny related subjects & my rescue work). I am a very busy mum/student and do have a life outside of bunnies (believe it or not haha). Please call me if the matter is urgent, otherwise please be patient (I can be in the lab without my phone for 6 hours at a time).
I offer a 48 hour guarantee for your bunny but you MUST follow the advice on the care sheet I give you the link to when you have reserved your bunnies. This advice is catered to your individual bunny. Moving home will be a stressful & critical time for your bunny. I will send home enough change over food to ensure bunnies tummy is not upset during such a big upheaval. I expect new homes to buy in the food I recommend (burgess excel adult) so that bunnies food is not changed for a couple of months. After this time you are free to feed what you would like as bunny will not be so sensitive to the change.
Do not feed any fresh produce during the first few weeks. Stick to pellets (excel burgess adult), hay, water and grass. DO NOT change this diet, even if told by pet shop worker, this will make your bunny poorly. The only exception would be if a vet advised so.
Remember, a bunny who doesn’t eat or have a bowel movement in 24 hours is a poorly bunny. Changing their diet at the same time as a house move is NOT advisable and will void your guarantee. I can not be held responsible for ANY vets bills for ANY reason. You must bring the bunny back to me for treatment (bear this in mind if you are travelling a long way to me) and I will treat bunny myself or seek medical attention (vets charge a lot for treatment which I could easily administer myself). Also, bear in mind the ONLY time a baby rabbit should be put under general anaesthetic is for a life or death situation. A baby rabbit is at a risk of death from being under general anaesthetic and the aftercare alone. Do not let your vet squeeze money from you at the risk of your rabbits health (this is not all vets of course).
Important Points to Mention
I put a lot of time and effort into raising these baby bunnies to ensure they will make excellent pets. Please expect me to ask some questions. I’m sure you can understand that I will want to make sure that my babies are going to loving homes that will provide for their bunnies needs and give them their precious time, love and adequate spacious housing. This will ensure your bunny is happy and healthy which will enable you to get the most from your beloved pet. Inadequate housing (esp a small living space) and/or neglect will result in a bunny who is unhappy and resorts to bad bunny behaviour.
Please note... having intact males and females in close proximity is not recommended. It can affect the behaviour of your bunnies. It can mean a bonded pair of females fall out or a male turns aggressive due to the presence of another male. Unless you are breeding, I would completely avoid this situation to ensure your rabbit retains its sweet nature. Neutering from 3 months (find a vet who will do this) will ensure your bunny stays sweet and loving. I can not be held to answer for an owner who has refused to take my advice on neutering their rabbit to ensure they remain wonderful pets (both sexes).
Please familiarise yourself with my website to ensure you understand what is expected of you as a new bunny owner. The information for new Bosworth Bunny owners is meant specifically for my baby bunnies and can not be generalised to bunnies from different breeders.
A rabbit prefers to live with another bunny. Indoor bunnies can be on their own as they have their family around them but it really depends how much attention they are getting. Neutering is a must with bunnies living in pairs or more, even in female sisters it is necessary (due to hormones at puberty around 5-6months).
My bunnies will be suitable as indoor or outdoor pets as they will be using litter trays as does their mummy and daddy. I only breed clean rabbits, messy rabbits have messy babies.
I will ask to see your housing and run (a photo & dimensions) before you leave with a bunny. This isn’t to be nosey. I have a duty as a responsible breeder to ensure the bunnies welfare and be a guide to prospective owners on housing if they need help (the minimum is 6ft x 2ft x 2ft, I advise absolutely no smaller than 5.5ft and bare in mind this is on top of hours a day out of their hutch). Bunny should also be able to stand on their hind feet and have enough room to stretch upwards fully. Again, if you are on a budget, rabbit housing doesn’t have to cost the earth, you just need to shop around and hopefully I can help you, see Ideal Bunny Homes. Indoor rabbits still need their own hutch/cage area and these requirements still apply to them. You can not have a bunny in a tiny cage because they will "have the run of the house or kitchen". They need their own space where only they go. Often, cages advertised as rabbit cages are no where near big enough. Check the dimensions.
If your bunny is an indoor/outdoor bunny please stick to that in the winter. In the summer its fine to bring either one inside or outside. However, in the winter, bringing an outdoor bunny inside and vise versa can seriously disrupt the bunnies ability to regulate its own temperature (due to our central heating systems and drastic temp changes) and bunny can die from over heating (presented in fits). In winter, be aware that bunny bottles will freeze if not in a shed. In summer, be aware that bunnies can die VERY QUICKLY on hot days. Do not have your bunnies hutch/housing in the sun, make sure they are in shade as a bare minimum.
As a responsible breeder, I will always take an unwanted bunny back and I do not need a reason as to why. I will then do my best to find a suitable and loving home for the bunny if I do not keep bun myself. I do not need a reason for re-home so please do not give my bunny to a rescue centre.
Finally...
If you have any questions or would like to enquire about reserving a bunny please contact me using the information here and I will reply as soon as possible (for the quickest response you can call, text or email). Try not to use whatsapp.
Please do familiarise yourself with the website as I have tried to share as much as possible about caring for bunnies. I am adding more and more to the site constantly.
Thank you very much for reading this information, I really do appreciate it.